What is SAM in the garment manufacturing industry?

What is SAM?

SAM full form is Standard Allowed Minutes for the particular operation. This is a measuring unit for the work content of garments. The SAM terminology often used by Industrial Engineer for calculations purposes.

What is garment SAM?

How much standard time required to make complete a garment is called Garment SAM, SAM will be vary based on the style and workmanship of the garment and how we do that. Industrial Engineer is writing process break down particular garment. The process breakdown is a guideline to set a bulk production line. Based on process break down. Every process is analyses and estimated SAM. SAM is calculated over the period for various kinds of processes and the same is maintained in a database.

SAM is the base value to do many calculations for example Target, manpower requirement, machinery requirement, manufacturing cost, efficiency, performance, Operator skill level, so on. SAM is the base value that is arrived by Industrial Engineer through proper study and calculation.

SAM is calculated by following methods

1.       Synthetic Time Study – STS

2.       Operation Video Analysis -OVA

3.       Predetermine Motion Time System – PMTS 

4.       Pro SAM – PSAM

5.       GSD and other methods

1. What is the Synthetic Time study method to arrive SAM:

The synthetic time study method used to arrive SAM, Industrial Engineer carefully observe and record cycle time for a particular process by using a stopwatch. Around 5 to 10 cycles will be observed and the same will be recorded along with performance rating. Time study will be conducted in the sample room or production floor. Along with observation time, some basic details also will be collected.

i.e. Name of operators, Name of process, Machine type, Machine No, Model, SPI, RPM, Fabric type, Style, Seam Length, No of stops, Attachments, Workplace layout, so on. These details are used to arrive at standard values.

The formula for SAM is  

SAM=Avg Cycle time x Rating x (1+Machine Delay+Allowances) + BHT

 

Average Cycle time = 27/60 => 0.45, Rating= 85%, Machine Delay = 12%, Allowances = 10% , BHT = 0.03

SAM        = Average Cycle Time x Ratting x (1+ Machine Delay + Allowance) + BHT

 = 0.45 x 85% (1+12%+10%) +0.03

 = 0.3825 x (1.22) + 0.03

 = 0.46665 + 0.03

 = 0.49665

SAM      = 0.50 Minute -------------------------- (a) 

Comments:

·         Cycle time should be taken Pick up to Pick up, which mean pic up, Sew, Dispose and pic up next piece,

·        The irreegular outine performance will not be considered in cycle time i.e. Change Bobbin, Thread Change, etc.  

·         Machine delay is considered based on machine type used, it will be vary based on the machine type.

·         Allowances is considered based on sample study, this will be vary based on the process skill required.

  2. What is the operation video analysis method to arrive SAM:

Operation video analysis method used to arrive SAM, Industrial Engineer carefully take video for a particular process for 1 to 2 cycles. It is taken from a sample room or production floor. The operation video should fully cover the process pic, sew, dispose and complete motion of pick to pick. some basic details also will be collected along with operation video.

 

Operation Video	Parameters
	Operators	Ms. Hana Jerry Hun
	Process	Hem Single fold Neck Band
	Machine type	Single Needle Lock Stitch
	Machine No	DDL 9000A – 2021
	Style	Men’s long sleeve dress shirt
	SPI	12 to 13
	Machine RPM	2500 per minute
	Fabric type	Solid
	Seam Length	46 cm
	No of stops	-

Step by method description and analysis

S. No.	Method Description	Time Line	Time Taken	Performance Ratting	Basic Time
1	Reach Part	1	1	95%	0.95
2	Pick part with 1-hand	2	1	95%	0.95
3	Pull part with 1-hand, Bring near to pressure foot	3	1	95%	0.95
4	Insert part underfoot Align	4	1	95%	0.95
5	Insert part into the folder, Sew approximate 2 cm	5	1	95%	0.95
6	Sew ~ 44cm	10	5	100%	5
7	Sew slow, fold and fold edge and feed into the folder	11	1	95%	0.95
8	sew at curve part by pushing by finger until end	12	1	90%	0.9
9	Leave neck band back and pick next pcs	13	1	90%	0.9
	Total		13s		12.5s

 

Note: The video should be played and observed in each and every motion in depth. This is deep analysis of motion should be written with description. The same should be check and analyzed about attachment, work aid, machine, mand and machine coordination, hand coordination, machine speed, a better method, and operator’s performance. Considering all parameters, the performance rating should be given. Based on time observed and performance rating, Basic time could have arrived. The Basic time is applied in the below formula.    

SAM = Avg Cycle time x Rating x (1+Machine Delay+Allowances) + BHT

 

Average Cycle time = 12.5s/60 => 0.208, Rating= 94%, Machine Delay=12%, Allowances = 10%,

BHT = 0.03

SAM        = Average Cycle Time x Ratting x (1+ Machine Delay + Allowance) + BHT

 = 0.208 x 94% (1+12%+10%) + 0.03

 = 0.19552 x (1.22) + 0.03

 = 0.238534 + 0.03

 = 0.2685

SAM      = 0.27 Minute -------------------------- (b) 

 Comments:

·         Machine delay is considered based on machine type used, It will be vary based on the machine type.

·         Allowances are considered based on sample study, this will be vary based on the process skill required.

·         Video should be taken a minimum of one complete cycle. There should not be missed any regular motion.

3. How to use Predetermine Motion Time System to arrive SAM:

Predetermine Motion Time System method used to arrive SAM,

PMTS full form is a Predetermined Motion Time System. This is systematically predetermining the motion break-ups for a particular process. The same convert with time. The time will be considered for SAM calculation. This method is used for the new operations.    

 

Please refer below example, we will take a process of Join yoke to back to arrive SAM by using the PMTS method.    

 

ASSUMED WORKPLACE LAYOUT	OPERATION DETAILS
	Process: Join yokes to back Machine: Single needle chain stitch SPI: 12 – 13; RPM: 3500 Folder: F211, 1/16” with Side sliding stand Comments: 1. Align both ends properly, 2. Seam allowance should be even 3. No Puckering, Skip Stitch, No pleats 4. Shape should & line be maintained 5. Follow minimum sewing requirements.

 

Step1: Write an assumed workplace layout, This will useful to visualize the workplace and understand the frequent-motions required.

Step2: Write the operation details i.e. Process, Machine type, SPI, folder, and attachment type, etc.

Step by method description and analysis

S. No.	Method Description (Motion)	LHS	RHS	TIME
1	Obtain under yoke & Back Panel	Yes	Yes	4
2	Align under foot	Yes	Yes	2
3	Add Upper yoke & fold and align edge under foot	Yes	Yes	2
4	Align panel ends insert into folder toward foot	Yes	Yes	2
5	Hold& Sew approximately 1 cm	Yes	Yes	1.5
6	Fold and Align	Yes	Yes	1
7	Push and sew (bust 2) ---> until center back	Yes	Yes	1.5
8	Fold and Align Yoke and back panel edge	Yes	Yes	1
9	Push and sew (bust 3)---> until end	Yes	Yes	1.5
10	Cut thread (By Back Knife)	Yes	Yes	1
11	Dispose Downward	Yes		1
			Total	18.5

 

Step3: Assume and write the step-by-step motion break up of the process. And based on operation analysis parameters, Write the determined time value for every motion. Cross-check all parameters.

Step4: Apply into the formula to arrive the SAM.  

SAM = Avg Cycle time x Rating x (1+Machine Delay+Allowances) + BHT

 

Average Cycle time = 18.5=> 0.308, Rating= 85%, Machine Delay = 5%, Allowances = 10%

SAM        = Average Cycle Time x Ratting x (1+ Machine Delay + Allowance) + BHT

     = 0.308 x 95% (1+5%+10%) + 0.04

     = 0.2926 x 1.15 + 0.04

     = 0.33649 + 0.04

     = 0.37649

SAM        = 0.38 Minute -------------------------- (d) 

Comments:

·         Machine delay is considered based on machine type used, It will be vary based on the machine type.

·         Allowances are considered based on sample study, this will be vary based on the process skill required.

·         The Video hould be taken a minimum of one complete cycle. There should not be missed any regular motion.

4. What is Pro SAM to arrive SAM:

Pro SAM method used to arrive SAM, most of the operation are repeat and there will be slightly change in few parameters, So Industrial Engineer using the previous SAM to check and estimate new SAM based on the present process. Pro SAM analysis used in tow place,

a)       Revise Present SAM (Update)

b)      Arrive for new Process

 

a) How to revise present SAM to new SAM

Take the new time study or video for the process which you need to revise, Check the detailly all motion and process. And replace the old SAM values by new SAM value. 

b) How to arrive SAM for a new process

Select the similar operation SAM with method descriptions.

a) Check what are the process common between two processes., take to new sheet with values 

b) Check the new process what are new, Add with old values with clear estimated values

By using above both steps, we can arrive the new SAM value for the process.

5. GSD and other methods to arrive SAM:

General Sewing Data (GSD) is one of the proven tools to arrive garment's SMV. Apart from GSD, some companies are using their own system to arrive the SMV.

However, that method may different but the end result remaining the same in all of them.