12 FACTORS TO CALCULATE ACCURATE THREAD CONSUMPTION 

What is thread consumption per garment?

How many threads required to sew a garment is called thread consumption. Sample selection for thread consumption calculation is very important, we have to select the right sample and size. Thread consumption calculation should consider proper allowance to avoid thread shortage or exceeding. Even thread cost is low than other cost of garment materials, thread consumption calculation is a very sensitive process. Providing incorrect thread consumption may lead to issues in production and delivery.

Thread consumption formula,

Thread consumption = (Seam length x Frequency x Factor) / 100 + Allowances

What are the facts that should be consider making an accurate thread consumption report.

1. Samples Type

When we select the sample for thread consumption calculation, we must be checked the type of sample. As below mentioned there are many types of samples. In all of them, we have to considered the counter sample or pre-production sample to calculate the thread consumption.

Picture – 1.1

 When we take other than counter and pre -production samples, there will be possible to miss construction. For example, buyer may give the construction changes or measurement adjustment comments. When we take other samples, that might not be incorporated. In case if we don’t have any other option then we can take them with clear comments. However, the consumption must be checked with factory pilot samples or with bulk production.  

2. Sample Comments (What would be the final construction)

We should take a sample with clear comments from the buyer, Sample QA, and designer. If any changes in construction, Seam type, Seam length, Measurement, Seam frequency, Special seam to avoid seam slippage, Special seam to achieve garment pull strength, Safety stitch required, Size wise grading, etc. are to checked clearly. The same should be considered accountability while calculating consumption. Specially Pintuck frequency, Elastic Smock stitch frequency, decorative stitch, Shrinkage, Elongation, Relaxed measurement, Expend measurement, etc. Those parameters will be changed even at the last movement of the Pre-production sample. The main motto of this review is to be understood how the production going to sew.

Picture 1.2

As mentioned above, key points should be considered to avoid deviation between thread consumption forecasted and bulk production required. It is just a quick review about all contains and comments on sample and construction.  

3. Size wise grading

Measurement details and size-wise grading percentage is the core point, as per below tale the order has a total of 5-sizes i.e. SX, S, M, L, and XL. In that Size, “M” is base size. From the base size other size patterns and samples are graded.   

Size	XS	S	M	L	XL
Grading %	-7%	-5%	0	+6%	+12%

Which mean,

o   Measurement of Size “XS” = M – 7%

o   Measurement of Size “S” = M – 5%

o   Measurement of Size “L” = M + 6%

o   Measurement of Size “XL” = M + 12%

Note: There two a type of measurement

a)       Graded measurement àSide seam, Front seam, Bottom, Etc. (Should considered in the calculation)   

b)      Stoddard Measurement à Pocket, Sleeve Placket, Cuff, Etc.

4. Middle size

Middle size selection is very important to balance consumption between small and bigger sizes.

No of Size	1st	2nd	3rd	4th	5th
Size	XS	S	M	L	XL

Formula,

Middle size = Round up [(Total Number of Sizes) / 2]

In the above case, Middle size = round up(5/2) => Round up(2.5) => 3

So, Middle Size = 3^rd Size => Size “M” could take for thread consumption calculation.  

5. Size wise order quantity

While select sample size, we also need to check the size-wise order qty. some time size-wise qty is not evenly distributed, Bigger qty will have more order qty than small or base size. In that case, we have to consider different middle sizes or should take additional thread allowance.

                                                                  Picture – 1.3

Note: Above qty is considered from only one color, because each order may have one or more colors. that should be check and considered carefully.

6. Size selection based on qty

When we compare order A & B in picture 1.3, We could understand the order “B” size wise qty are not even. Size L and XL are more than Size XS and S. So, we should consider the base size as L or need to add additional thread consumption allowance based on grading details of Size L and XL.

7. Color combo and thread colors

a) Color Combo within order: Each order will have one or more colors, when we do thread consumption, We should common and uncommon thread colors among the combo. Based on color-wise order qty, we have to consider allowances.

b) Thread Color with in garment: We have to check each and every color of thread used, for the column should be created in the thread consumption sheet. Where ever different color threads come, that should be check and confirm top and inside thread colors (Needle and bobbin).

 Example: Body matching thread, Label matching thread, button matching thread, contrast threads, pocketing thread, lining matching thread, etc.

8. Thread counts

Within color, there will be different count or ticket in the threads. That should be checked clearly with order specification, Once confirmed all, that should be written in the thread consumption sheet column.

Example:

Needle Thread for top side = Text 60, Bobbin thread = Text 30, Overlock thread = Text 27, Embroidery thread = 18, etc.  

 Different kind of threads count or text combination is required to maintain seam strength and maintain the appearance of garments. The same should be studied and followed carefully in thread consumption.

9. Thread factor

In most cases, IE is taking constant factors for buttons, Buttonhole, Bartack, Keyhole, etc. But That is not an accurate way. IE should be checked a number of passing, number of stitches, and thickness of seam. Based on those parameters thread consumption will be varied.

So, IE should tack a trail sew and open the thread to finding the actual consumption of threads. Based on that factors should be fixed and followed in the thread consumption sheet.

For Button stitch, Buttonhole, Bar tack, keyhole, etc.

Factor = (N1+B1, N2+B2,N3+B3, … Nn+Bn.) / n ------------------------------------------------ (a)  

Note: Nà Needle thread, Bà Bobbin thread, 1,2,3,..nà Are operation.

This formula is only applicable for button stitch, Buttonhole, Bartack, Key Hole, etc.  

Single Needle Machine (SNLS or SNCS)

Needle Thread Factor = (Needle thread length) / Seal length ----------------------------- (b)

Bobbin (or) Bottom Thread = Bottom thread length) / Seam Length -------------------- (b1)

Single needle seam factor = (b)+(b1) ---------------------------------------------------------------(b2)

Needle thread contribution = (b) / (b)+(b1) * 100 --------------------------------------------- (b3)

Bottom thread contribution = (b1) / (b)+(b1) * 100 -------------------------------------------- (b4)

Note: Nà Needle thread, Bà Bobbin or bottom thread , 1,2,3,..nà Are operation.

Based thread factor, we have to apply it in the thread consumption sheet. If we use the assumed factor then will lead to thread shortage or thread exceeding.

10. Thread Type (i.e. DTM, 100% Cotton)

We have to consider few safer factors to avoid last-minute surprise. We have to consider allowances based for Die to math (DTM), 100% cotton due to high breakage, High lead time, etc.   

11. Order quantity and Planned Qty per line

Order qty and planned qty per line should be considered for thread allowance. If the order qty is less then we have to consider thread allowance accordingly. If order and allowed per line qty is high, Then probably we can reduce thread allowance.

12. Other points to be considered

o   Number of machines and thread-pooler required in color wise

o   Excess seam and seam allowance

o   Thread type and breakage  

o   Avoid wastage in sewing floor

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